Water Transfer Printing: A Modern Approach to an Age-Old Technique

 

In Blender small stimulation has to be made and this shows results to a 3D printed object using hydrographic printing.  This printing is commonly used to add and decorate with the various graphic patterns to items such as gaming controllers and guitars and it will not be wrong if we say it is a boon to the automobile industry.

A floating, which is half dissolved colorful film surrounded all over around the object and transfers the graphic to reflect at the surface after it is completely poured into a water bath. Compound curves are difficult to color with graphics in any other manner!

The surface of the 3D print can be given a diffuse texture by printing a customized UV map onto hydrographic water transfer printing. A UV texture, unlike traditional repeating-pattern hydrographic, requires a precise placement on the model. This necessitates a method for simulating and forecasting the hydrographic film's behavior as it wraps around the model.

The surface tension plays the best role in floating any of the objects in the water bath during the immersion printing process. Because if we look at the  Blender, it doesn't have the property of the native surface tension simulation.

We at American Hydrocarbons use a cloth simulation to describe in detail the hydrographic dipping, which interacts with a collision object for eg. 3D-printable, UV-mapped mesh) and is frictionlessly "floated" between two force field entities.

Process of  Hydro Dipping:

●      PVA hydrographic film is the best option for printing your graphics. Use pigment-based ink in your inkjet printer.

●      Make sure the 2D print is scaled appropriately depending on the baked texture's generated resolution and the film's simulated size.

●      A Preval sprayer can be very helpful while coating the film to dry for at least a minimum of 10 minutes. Fill the water tank to a temperature of 28 to 30°C.

●      Place the film ink-side up on the water's surface.

●      If it has been placed into the water don’t disturb it if any of the bubbles remain on the surface gently remove that.

●       The film will wrinkle before smoothing out.

●      Activators should be sprayed on the film. More activator makes the film weaker and helps fill in interior corners, but it also makes colors less vibrant and reduces simulation accuracy. The image will dissolve if you use too much activator.

●      The part has to be completely dipped inside the water film. In the case of Form 1+ printer is used, the Z-axis can be easily moved with the Open FL. The ideal sinking speed is between 2 and 5 millimeters per second.

●      Remove the excess film by rinsing the component underwater. The portion should not be rubbed. Allow for an hour of air drying.

We're treating the hydrographic pattern like a very flexible, buoyant fabric rather than a viscous sheet. The synthetic fabric will never disintegrate, although the genuine film will. The image can be applied up to and past the model's midpoint, depending on the film's cohesivity, but it will not fill places with substantial discontinuities in elevation.